Saturday, October 7, 2023

My Greek Adventure: Nurturing the Soul's Longing


There is something about Greece that words cannot adequately express. I have visited Greece many times, but during my recent two-week vacation on the island of Crete, I felt a unique spirit, one that transcended mere culture; it reached deep into my soul. I experienced a blend of emotions—sadness, longing, and freedom—all of which left me both mystified and searching. 


Greece, undeniably a Christian land, stands at the crossroads of tradition and modernity. Its landscape is dotted with beautiful churches, some grand, some humble, housing holy relics, and even the miraculously uncorrupted bodies of beloved saints. Even the tiniest chapels are adorned with beautiful icons, aglow with the light of burning or recently extinguished candles, and filled with the intoxicating scent of incense. Some of these sacred sites have stood for over a millennium, their bells ringing out to announce divine services. Passersby routinely make the sign of the cross or stop to light a candle, and during a service, you can witness various expressions of devotion. There's the chanter whose body moves with expression in harmony with his melodic voice, the elderly lady continuously making the sign of the cross, another who occasionally prostrates herself, and a man who reverently pulls slips of paper from his bag, each bearing a name for his prayers. The chants, incense, and holy icons all declare the presence of the Holy Spirit. In Greece, the Church is an ever-present companion.


Our mode of transport was a rented VW Polo, and there was something liberating about navigating the Greek roads. The highways with the familiar lane markings and stop signs are meant as suggestions. Driving felt like a dance of awareness, with motorcycles weaving through traffic. The pace is unhurried, rarely exceeding 40 mph, as most roads are narrow by our standards. Stoplights are only found in major cities, and driving feels organic, with two lane roads suddenly turning into three, disregarding the lane markings.  Vehicles and pedestrians attempting to cross anywhere, seem to disregard traffic riles entirely. Often, we'd pause to let an approaching vehicle pass due to obstacles like parked cars or trash bins, buildings on both sides. or a rock outcropping. The roads are rarely straight and curves are often blind to oncoming traffic. Remarkably, we observed not a single accident. The flow of traffic, like so many aspects of life in Greece, is harmonious and free. It gave me a sense of freedom.


Innumerable quaint villages, each with its own family-run mini markets, bakeries, and butcher shops, await exploration. The finest olive oil and cheese can be found here, along with fresh-baked bread, pies, an array of delectable sweets, and tasty organically grown heirloom vegetables. The traditional food is simple but delicious and affordable. Coffee and sweet shops along with family run small tavernas, bustle day and night, serving as gathering places for locals who engage in hours of friendly dialogue with friends and family.


Greece seamlessly marries land, sea, and sun. While olive tree groves, vineyards, sheep and goat pastures have transformed the natural environment, the sea remains natural and an ever-present force. The sea with clean, crystal-clear waters of various shades of mediterranean blue, crashes against rocks with resolute force, occasionally calms to serenity, or erupts into massive waves. The sound of waves permeates the air, while pounding waves offer an idyllic backdrop. Beaches abound, some adorned with golden sands, others with rocks sculpted by the relentless action of the waves. Many remain untouched by commercialization, offering a haven of solitude.


The vibrancy of Greece's larger cities contrasts with the tranquility of its villages. Even in the bustling city, the heart of its people often belongs to their village where relatives still live. The sea and the villages provide respite from the demands of urban life, a way to escape its superficiality. Organic architecture characterizes the villages, devoid of cookie-cutter subdivisions that reshape the land. Buildings blend seamlessly with the natural contours, evolving over time to meet the changing needs of families. Narrow streets harken back to a time before motorized vehicles. Because of the ever-shifting topography, walkways demand careful attention due to uneven surfaces and steps of differing heights.


History is another important dimension of a Greek experience. Evidences of human habitation dating back thousands of years before Christ are ever-present, humbling in their reminder of our fleeting presence in the grand scheme of time.


My short revisit to Greece left me with an inexplicable sense of longing and sadness. Perhaps it's the realization that this way of life, so deeply rooted in tradition and spirituality, is gradually fading in the face of modernity. There's an innate yearning within me for a more organic and natural existence, where the sacredness of the Orthodox Church infuses every aspect of life. It's a longing for a harmonious union of spirit, land, sea, clean air, and pure water—an existence that seems increasingly elusive in a world where villages have disappeared, family-run businesses have been replaced by corporate giants, and personal engagement has become a rarity.


Upon deeper reflection, I've come to understand that this longing and sadness are not merely for a better worldly way of life but, more profoundly, a yearning for a deeper connection with God. The Christian faith teaches us that our worldly experiences are but a preparation for the life to come. Despite life's challenges, it's a reminder that we are not in control. The challenges we face are gifts from God, opportunities for us to overcome self-centeredness, rely on the Holy Spirit, unite our will with His, and grow in humility and love for Him and others. Thus, this longing and sadness I experienced are a reflection of a deeper desire for union with God, to become embraced in His love, and a preparation for the life that awaits in His eternal kingdom.


Note: If you are planning a trip to Greece, try to avoid the larger cities or the many resorts that dot the seaside, and plan to venture out into the less traveled places, the sea coast areas that have not been overtaken by tourism. There are many apartments and small villas to rent and some seaside tavernas have rooms on the upper floors. They are all clean, well equipped, and have extremely friendly owners. Hospitality is a natural value of the Greek people. Visit the churches, the less popular beaches. Eat the traditional food offered in the tavernas. Rent a small car and don’t be afraid of the ever curving mountainous roads, but stay on the paved roads. Don’t worry about the language as almost everyone speaks some English. Relax, explore, and let the land, the sea, its people and churches nurture your soul.

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